Austarion

Sorry if this is a Re-post, I did a search.

With the Aussie Dollar being so good atm, I thought I might run the Credit Card bill and buy some bits I'm not really ready for, but the saving is worth it.

The motor I have is a JDM Spec VR4, 6 bolt, big port. Keep in mind, the car will be drag only, running big cams, 3spd auto, E85 etc.

So i'm looking at either the:

Brian Crower:

BC0105 2.40L - Includes 4340 billet crank (6 bolt), 102mm stroke, H-beam BC625+ rods (5.906 c-to-c), and custom pistons (choice of bore/compression). ACL Race bearings available separately.

BC0106 2.40L - Includes 4340 billet crank (6 bolt), 102mm stroke, H-beam Sportsman rods (5.906 c-to-c), and custom pistons (choice of bore/compression). ACL Race bearings available separately.

Or

Eagle:

86110 140 (cu) 4340 3.9370" 5.900" H-Beam -20.0cc forged Arias .020 head cc needed 1687.50

There is also a Nitto kit, but I dont know if it is a 6 or 7 bolt crank

* CRANKSHAFT
o 4340 Grade Billet Steel
o Fully Counter Weighted
o Nitrided Finish
o Fully Balanced
* CONNECTING RODS
o 4340 Grade Billet Steel
o Optional H-Beam or I-Beam
o Quality ARP 2000 Series Bolts
o Optional ARP Custom Age 625 Plus Series Bolts
* PISTONS
o JE / NITTO Produced Quality
o Forged T6 2816 Alloy
o Low Silicone Content
o Contact Reduction Grooves
o Accumulator Groove
o 9310 Nickel/Carbon Alloy Pins
o JE Pro Seal Premium Ring Sets


Any feedback on the kits, info etc?

I think the crower stuff would be a bit nicer than the eagle, a lot of eagle/scat stuff is made in china (albeit with very good quality control), i have found arias forgies to be a little noisy when cold, JE and CP's i've used havnt been. CP look the nicest.. thats about all the advice i can give you!

Aaron you may want to have a think about a 94mm stroker crank to get app 2150 cc as it should rev a bit better than the 100 crank.You can get longer rods as well to improve the rod ratio.
As a matter of interest Buschur uses long rods with stroker pistons to move the side thrust point higher to avoid splitting the bores .He calls 30 psi lo boost :x
My peferred rod would be Pauter I beam and they make them any length.
BTW & FYI David Buschur loves his Haltec Platinum 1000 ecu and says its not coming off his Bad Bish street car that he is building for an 8 second pass

Well, life begins at 30psi.....................

I might throw an email David's way, also I see APC do their own kit, as used in Robs drag evo, might see what they use.

After looking at the BC site though, makes me think the second motor I might get will be a 2.4l block so I can go 2.6l. Or maybe even do something different, 3.5l v6.................

Good luck getting anything out of APC. They won't even mention who does their machine work.. Let alone what parts they use. Unless you physically go in, hand over your block and a wad of cash..

Why not just use a 4G64 crank? Sure they're a bit heavier, but you'll save a metric shed load of cash and get pretty much the same result.

Then you just need the stroker pistons and you're set.

wich ever way or combo you chose make sure you get the whole rotating assemby balanced.
i my self would not trust anything to come of a production line to be perfect.
yes eagle are made in china but almost everything in our lives is made there, quality control is not an issue these day's , the old day's of cheap and nasty are long gone.

my comb - yes i have gone the stroker route too is
4g64 crank gen mits from an express van $150 from Imlachs auto salvage
mahle/eagle rod combo with arp bolts $700 us i think i can not rember
and acl race bearings.
the whole rotating assemble has been balnced and blue printed and the crank was knifed and polished.
the crank was polished and not cut and was like new and yes the balnce shafts are going back in (i just got back from vegas and yes i was at sema,man what a palce and after speaking to all the dsm guy's they advised to put the balance shafts in with the stroker combo)

so after all that the whole combo has cost me around the same price but i know the whole thing is blanced as a unit.

it will just sit next to the other stuff i have for now and i dont know when it will all come together, at this rate the car will most liklely be on vintage rego before i pull my finger out.

and i am still going to keep the single cam, the stroker with the td05 20g and the cam i currently have in place will be more than enough for the car to be able to be enjoyed on the street and the odd club day. last time i went to the drags i saw a sigma crack a low ten , it ran a t/c and a gt35 at 28 psi and yes it was nice to see.... but it came on a trailer and left on a trailer so whats the point i say. yes it cracked a ten but most other cars that night were in the 9's......

Anchor wrote:Good luck getting anything out of APC. They won't even mention who does their machine work.. Let alone what parts they use. Unless you physically go in, hand over your block and a wad of cash..

pretty sure they use JHH engineering at slacks creek but i maybe wrong

some info i found on going stroker - not really entirely relevent to comparing eagle vs crower, but good info nonetheless methinks:

http://web.archive.org/web/200404050718 ... roker.html

http://web.archive.org/web/200404210420 ... roker.html

For a drag-car and big budget:
4G64 block
BC (stroker-) crank
>10:1 pistons (coated) / E85
Alu-rods