Wiring dash loom into dohc loom PICS UP PLS HELP!!

[Lunacy]

hey guys
Am in the process of delooming my vr4 loom that im using for my conversion and getting rid of all the un-needed wiring.
Im using a EMS stinger computer and have had no issue wiring that in to the loom, the problem im having is figuring what wires need to be joined from the dohc dash loom plugs into the starion dash loom that goes to the speedo area.
I also discovered the modulator box thing near where the glovebox is, and dont know whether anything from there needs hooking up.
Ive got a USA service manual, but its a bit hard to make head or tail of as think some of its different.
Any help with this wiring appreciated, or if anyone could decipher the wiring from the dash loom into the engine loom thatd be great.
Cheers

[Lunacy]

Right heres pics of what wires i need to figure out:
This is plug B38 from loom behind steering column which joins to starion engine bay loom in case anyone actually has a diagram with this plug on it.




Heres the pic of the male starion dash plug wire colours:


These are the vr4 dohc loom plugs:



And these are the wire colours on all the plugs:
Sorry if pic is a bit rubbish



If anyone can help me with info on which wires i need to hook up thatd be great.

[Vulpes]

this is exactly why I would never do a twin cam swap. Too many headaches and too much money. Good luck with the swap, sorry I cant help.

[thrash]

this is exactly why I would never do a twin cam swap. Too many headaches and too much money.

LOL how much money did you spend on your build again? :P

[Lunacy]

this is exactly why I would never do a twin cam swap. Too many headaches and too much money.

LOL how much money did you spend on your build again? :P

Yep but i tell ya what, ive learnt SO much about my car doing this. Im slowly figuring my way through the wiring diagrams and ill get there eventually.
Doing this swap means that if i ever have any problems with it once its done, i will have been there done that and should be able to diagnose and fix it quickly :)

[panda]

Yep but i tell ya what, ive learnt SO much about my car doing this. Im slowly figuring my way through the wiring diagrams and ill get there eventually.
Doing this swap means that if i ever have any problems with it once its done, i will have been there done that and should be able to diagnose and fix it quickly :)

Years of reading & theory are no substitute for personal experience. :)

[Lunacy]

Yep but i tell ya what, ive learnt SO much about my car doing this. Im slowly figuring my way through the wiring diagrams and ill get there eventually.
Doing this swap means that if i ever have any problems with it once its done, i will have been there done that and should be able to diagnose and fix it quickly :)

Years of reading & theory are no substitute for personal experience. :)

Very true nothing like gettin in and doin it to learn a few things :)

[MainstreaM]

Luckily, the engineers of the Starion wiring kept things tidy. Only one plug connects the chassis to the engine (basically). This plug is called "B-38". Knowing B-38 is all you need to know if you're going stand alone. How about that?

1988-up 14pin

Pin Name
1 None
2 +12V Constant
3 Cruise
4 +12V Switched (Ignition)
5 Switched +12V Power
6 Inhibitor Switch (Auto)
7 Oil Pressure Gauge
8 None
9 None
10 Diagnosis Output
11 Start
12 Temp Gauge
13 Boost Gauge
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
For wire colors, see here - page 60 -
http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/ ... trical.pdf

1987-down 10pin

Pin Name
1 None
2 +12V Switched (Ignition, Coil +)
3 +12V Constant
4 Ground
5 Oil Pressure Signal
6 Diagnostics
7 Starter Signal
8 Temp Gauge
9 Boost Gauge
10 Vehicle Speed Sensor
For wire colors see here - around page 220 -
http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/ ... trical.pdf


Here is some more info that you might find helpful

Pin 2: 12V power for backup memory in the ECU. This fuse (10A) is in the fancy fuse box below the steering wheel.
Pin 3: This wire is cruise control related. I am not sure of the actual function.
Pin 5: 12V power for when the ECU is on. On the DSM this fusible link was located on the positive battery terminal. On the Starion this is the "ECI" fusible link wire (bullshit).
Pin 6: The inhibitor switch is what keeps a car with an automatic from starting when it is in gear (that could get ugly). Actually it could be ugly in a manual too. That is why cars usually have a clutch switch... and surprisingly the Starion has no such safety device. You don't even need to push the clutch to start this thing. Anyways... This should be grounded on a manual transmission car.
Pin 7: Oil Pressure Gauge. This works too! Oil pressure gauges rule!
Pin 10: Hooking up to this will allow you to check ECU codes with the Starion checker plug located above the glove box. It would be better to upgrade to an OBDI plug.
Pin 12: Temp Sender signal to cluster. Temp sensor works!
Pin 13: ECU boost level. Stock boost gauge works!
Pin 14: There is not a VSS in the transmission. The signal is generated by the cable turning the reed switch in the speedometer. This generates the signal and sends it to the ECU. I don't really know what a 1G ECU would do with a Vehicle Speed signal.

Fuel Pump - The fuel pump comes from the ECI control relay. This wire is rather thick. You will need to find a plug to connect this to the chassis harness' fuel pump wire. I usually cut a new 1-pin plug off a parts car and solder it in.

The Tachometer - The tach gauge signal comes off of the coil on the Starion. It runs up the driver side fender and into the dash. The DSM tach signal comes from the coil pack and through the ECU. Its your call to tap in at the coil or at the ECU.

Oil Pressure Gauge - You will need to run several wires from the oil filter housing. One of these is for the oil pressure gauge. Simply tie this wire into pin 7 of B-38 to have a functional oil pressure gauge.

Credit:
All info posted came from DJpowerhaus and www.projectzerog.com. I only added the diagram links.

Kane

[Lunacy]

Thanks for that Kane, ive been using it or trying to for the last few days.
Only prob is my plugs are different to those on there, and as there are no wiring colours ive had to do a lot of checking wires with my multimeter.
Im getting thru it slowly but surely and will document the wiring when i know ive got it sorted and correct.

[iXNAY]

im trying to find where i can get a constant 12v for my ECU while the engine is cranking as it seems the 12v IGN ON drops out when car is cranking.

[Lunacy]

im trying to find where i can get a constant 12v for my ECU while the engine is cranking as it seems the 12v IGN ON drops out when car is cranking.

Il let ya know soon as i hook a battery up to mine :)

[iXNAY]

im trying to find where i can get a constant 12v for my ECU while the engine is cranking as it seems the 12v IGN ON drops out when car is cranking.

Il let ya know soon as i hook a battery up to mine :)

thinking about it last night we should beable to get the 12v during cranking from the coil + as it will need power during cranking to fire the spark plugs...

[Xentro]

I'm also working on connecting a evo 3 loom upto my starion.

And in my car (1988 euro spec 2.0 widey) the b38 plug was already cut by the previous owner (i bought just the shell)


But I've used the thick Blue wire for IGN On as it remains on even when starting.

[redzone]

i never do it this way as it's too much of a headfuck and you're using old wiring.. just make a new loom, it's easier!

[iXNAY]

i never do it this way as it's too much of a headfuck and you're using old wiring.. just make a new loom, it's easier!

id have to agree with you its actually not that hard or that big a job and also if a problem comes up you can probably fault find it yourself fairly quickly.