Austarion

Well ok i think i have enough pics/info now to throw this thread together. bear with me though as i need to collate a lot of pics/info.

a basic rundown:

Starion block
starion upper balance shaft
starion or galant LONGNOSE crank
n/a galant bigport head
n/a galant timing cover/lower balance shaft assembly
n/a galant timing gears/idlers etc


more to come :)

looking forward to it :D

Hey dave. How long until we can start expecting some info :D Cheers

Ok the basics first! the twin cam type crank pulleys on the left, late sohc on the right:



These crank girdles are the only real benefit of using a narrowblock over a starion block, but they can be used if you line bore the starion block to suit them:



There are two different starion cranks, a long nose and short nose, the digital verniers tell the story. the long nose is the one you want for a twin cam pulley setup. the stock twin cams are long nose.







Here are the stock rods from a starion, dohc n/a and a VR4 motor. as you can see, they're identical, and safe for about 7000rpm. they dont compress under power loading either (within reason) but its so cheap for aftermarket rods these days why not use them?



If you retain the balance shafts, use the starion upper shaft with the starion block, as the dohc shaft hasnt got provision for oiling the rear bearing. also use the dohc oil pump housing complete with the dohc shaft etc. starion one is the top one.



Here is the stock dohc motor from a front view. note the pulley/tensioner arrangement. the stock auto tensioner is best converted into a manual adjustable type, APC do this cheaper than i could get it done. but yes just use all the dohc pulleys/brackets/alternator p/s pump etc.

Cooling system - use the dohc type water pump, with some nifty alloy spouts welded on :D





Water outlet from the back of the head, if you werent loucky enough to get one from wantsom :)



Here are a couple of extra holes put into the front of the block, to replicate the dohc ones. allows coolant from to the front of the head:



Here is the transfer pipe i made up that runs down the middle of the intake manifold, after you ditch the stock dohc coil setup. Note you can buy the 4AC AE82 thermo housings new from KC, then you avoid having troubles getting a nice weld on them!

Power steering bracketry: use the dohc pressed/welded steel bracket, then a redzone power steering bracket kit :D





As you can see, the front piece is welded onto the alternator bracket

RX7 FC gearbox conversion.

some comparison pics first:

N/A galant HG/HH intake manifold mods for rear wheel drive, conversion to falcon throttle body:

some nice info there dave :)

Dave I have two questions about this thread.

1) Can you still fit the Airconditioning compressor to the RHS of the engine because the alternator and PS pump is on the left with your kit?

2) Is this all you really need to do in order to do this conversion? I only ask because the CAS wasn't covered (May not be an issue once you add new bellhousing and gearbox.) And would be really nice to see the brackets you made up for the gearbox and to see the mod for the yoke and driveline.

Great info and pics though Dave. These will be invaluable. Thanks

1) Can you still fit the Airconditioning compressor to the RHS of the engine because the alternator and PS pump is on the left with your kit?


yes, you use the twin cam aircon compressor and bracket to match the twin cam pk type pulleys you use :) obviously some cut an weld on the a/c pipes to the compressor. ps i'll have a price on the power steering bracket kit soon also :)


2) Is this all you really need to do in order to do this conversion? I only ask because the CAS wasn't covered (May not be an issue once you add new bellhousing and gearbox.) And would be really nice to see the brackets you made up for the gearbox and to see the mod for the yoke and driveline.

yeah i'll take some more pics when she's up on the hoist next showing more of the gearbox conversion. i slotted the original engine mount brackets on the motor at both mounting points to move the motor forward 12mm. if u are running a ems stinger or other cheap computer which cant do sequential, you could avoid moving it forward and use a crank angle sensor instead of the cam angle sensor.[/b]

Great write up, thanks!

3 questions:
-How to tell if the head is big or small port when still assembled?
Are there any specific codes to look for?
-Long and short crank, how do you thell? When you measure them like in you`re pic, they need to have the 38mm?
-How good are the original n/a cams when running boost pressures around 1.5 Bar?


Regards

Adil

Intake manifold is diff from vr4/ggsr (6 bolt block heads) to evo123/rvr (7 bolt block heads). Basically, earlier models are blocky with stamping on them saying ECI MULTI or something similar. Evo ones look kind of like a log with no seriously blocky bits and they are devoid of any form of marking.

Don't fucking touch NA cams with a turbo motor. Get a set of cams out of an e123 head or a vr4 head or goto www.ffwdconnection.com and order some DKS ones which aren't expensive.

Cranks I can't answer.

Sorry i'd post pics but they aren't on this computer.

Great pics and great work.. just wondering if you ended up with the price for the power steering bracket kit?? do you make them up and post them?? Also would you be able to let me know how long the throttle cable was and price?? Going to do the same conversion of a 89 galant DOHC onto my starion block. cheers mate is it all up and running now?? Nick

ngats wrote:Great pics and great work.. just wondering if you ended up with the price for the power steering bracket kit?? do you make them up and post them?? Also would you be able to let me know how long the throttle cable was and price?? Going to do the same conversion of a 89 galant DOHC onto my starion block. cheers mate is it all up and running now?? Nick

power steering bracket kit is $160 plus shipping, i need you to send me your twin cam alternator bracket so i can weld the new outer pump bracket on.

i really need to update this thread now steve's car is nearly done!