Austarion

10.4:1 sounds about right for a stock ECU at full load if it's not intercooled. You may have a bit of a boost leak somewhere though. There are a couple of dodgy fixes you can do to adjust the AFR without getting an electronic fuel controller. There should be some rubber plugs in the AFM that you can...

My DASH engine had a TD05-12a but it was from an Eterna.

The EVO 3 has a different style of flange, the wastegate part is separate to the main turbine exit.

That sounds like the filter for the crankcase vent line? They have them on Cordias, not sure about Starions. If that is it then you should definitely keep it, it stops the oil from getting on your air filter.

The DASH ECU and body looms are separate so it's entirely possible, as long as your mates good at wiring. I just finished installing an aftermarket ECU and found it a lot easier to use the factory wiring rather than rerunning every wire. But your DASH head will be worth more if you sell it with the ...

Is your distributor loose? If they timing is way off it can cause those symptoms.

These might be worth a read. http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB11&Number=169029&page=0&fpart=1 http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB11&Number=219983&page=1&fpart=1 http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB11&Nu...

I think you'll find that different forums, and maybe to a lesser extent different countries, will give you very different opinions on what is possible from a particular budget. I don't know why but it's just what I've seen.

Are you running the DASH ECU and throttle body or the standard Starion ECU and throttle body? Most people are running the later but sometimes you see the original DASH stuff, particularly in NZ. High idle is usually from an incorrectly set TPS, there's a set procedure here , it's not written for the...

Here is a close up of the oil squirters, you can see the flatend out area they sit in and (I think) the oil channel that supplys them.

The tuner tells the ECU the mass of air that will enter the engine at X psi with a particular turbo, if you change to a different turbo the mass will be different at the same pressure and you'll need to get it retuned.

toysrus wrote: So putting this into perspective, running an extra 25psi of Air into the Engine isn't going to do any damage :roll:

Good, so you agree that this ^ is incorrect then?

Running 25psi of boost wont add 25psi to your cylinder pressure to give you 175psi, it adds 25psi to the intake pressure which is then compressed to give you a much higher cylinder pressure. So an Intake pressure of 39.7psi (25psi boost + 14.7psi atmospheric) would give a cylinder pressure closer to...

Only the VR4 engines have a true Cyclone intake with dual runners actuated with a valve, DASH intake manifolds are too small to fit a second set of runners, they'd look almost twice as big if they did have them. You might be thinking of the second larger intake valve on the DASH heads which opens at...

Have you checked the timing with a light? This makes it really easy to spot if the dizzy is a tooth out which happens a lot, it also needs to be done anyway when you take the dizzy out. Is the cam timing correct?