Austarion

Ahhh, thinking about it, I reckon they just haven't photographed it very well. The stud in the hub for the shared hole is replaced with the longer one, then the spacer fitted with a low profile wheel nut, which the wheel goes over. There is then enough thread left on the stud to put on another nut, ...

Those ones, the way they've made them, yes. Stupid! The ones I've seen before use a wheel nut with a stud sticking out the end for the shared hole.

Should do, yes. They're the right centerbore and stud pattern... But I'm sure I've read that any sort of wheel spacers are illegal in Australia?

Sheeeeeyt. I dont even have one I can send you :-(

You should still have the timing plate which goes in between of the balance shaft belt pulley (the 4g61 spacer in your case) and the main timing belt pulley installed, and that should give you the timing mark for TDC on the crank?

Top are power steering pump brackets, look to have been hacked around a bit.

Middle is timing belt tensioner mount I;m pretty sure.

Bottom certainly are engine mounts, one of them (with the rounded corner) has been modified.

Any aftermarket ECU you choose will be able to run any of the coils mentioned previously. The factory EVO setup uses an external ignitor, and each coil has two posts, for the wasted spark setup mitsy used. The rest of the coils mentioned all have internal ignitors, and you'll need one coil per cylin...

Lubrication isn't going to help if they're already slogged out though, which is the case for a lot of cars out there I'm going to bet.

COP's are sweet, and nice and tidy, but unless you use CDI coils, and convert to a CDI setup, you usually end up with less spark energy than a well sorted 'Coil Near Plug' setup with a short HT lead. COP units typically have to be pretty small, which means there isn't space for beefy windings, so le...

For the price of LS1 coils, you'd be damn close to these: http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-output-igbt-inductive-smart-coil-1240 Which I've personally run a bunch of tests on (not AEM branded ones, but the exact same unit however) and they're pretty damn robust. If you've already got the EVO coil ...

Yes, I've seen them support upwards of 450hp easily. The ignitors are really easy to interface to too, and have a tacho output that will drive your factory tach, with a small modification.

Right, have sorted some R31 control arms from up north, should see them next week. They're apparently 20mm shorter than the s13 ones, so I'm hoping they do the trick, and I don't have to do any cutty cutty weldy weldy. Anything I weld on the suspension side of things has to be NDT tested, so if I ca...

They're a pretty tricky double hinge, the door opens through two different arcs to clear the front guard. I've never heard of anyone replacing the pins, but if someone figured it out, that would be awesome, as deent hinges must be getting pretty thin on the ground by now?

The S13 lower D2 mounts came in (thanks Scarles), got things mocked up again. It's as suspected, the S13 lower arms are just a bit too long. With the camber adjustability on the lower mounts all the way to positive, there is still around 3-4 deg of negative camber. I could correct this with the top ...

The base subframe structure is the Nissan S13 (actually an S14, but they're the same) one, with the chassis/engine mounting 'ears' from a starion crossmember chopped up to fit. I'll use Nissan lower control arms, knuckles, hubs, brakes, and lower suspension mounts. I'll thread my existing D2 coilove...