Austarion

My car is logbooked as IPRA but I run in a new class in Tassie called Muscle Car Cup which caters for any logbooked car pre 1983 and Group A/C replicas. I have widebody front control arms to get more negative camber at the front which is a must. I have also kept the 4 stud hubs. My front brakes are ...

awesome, a normal one will be ok. i bought a new one for the race car but it doesn't seal properly and due to the high cornering speeds i have been leaking fuel!!

hi redzone after a couple of weird and wonderful parts;

- exterior trim above windscreen
- couple of dust caps for front hubs
- petrol tank cap with key - not the outer flap but the twisty cap

thanks

if bar and lights available still can I come and have a look on the weekend?
cheers

avandull and i had a look and the LSD disc with inside pins from an rx7 clutch pack look very similar to ours but we werent willing to buy some and try, maybe if you get stuck for them??

http://www.mazdatrix.com/g8lsd.htm

Im after the exterior trim that sits on top of the windscreen
Mine blew off whilst racing and have no idea where it landed!!

how wide are the simmons??

im pretty sure i have a straight one with no rust
if you have a flat bonnet without the scoop i would be willing to trade?

yeah allan and i have been thinking of doing something like this since march after we had a chat to craig at the phillip island meeting i think we have decided to cut/sacrifice the bottom off one of a spare set of hubs and welding + strengthening it to the hubs on the car - but lower - the improved ...

i have spoken at length to a few guys who race starions and they all have said if you lower the rear without restoring factory geometry the rear end wants to overtake the front (which i found out last month and bent my starion) they lowered the pick up point on the hub to help cure this some pics of...

i have been telking to many people about irs suspension and when you significantly lower a car as i have done it obviously throws out the factory geometry. craig with the xerox car explained this but i have studiesd the group a starions and they use rose joints and a heap of other changes that i am ...

i got mine out of the states from ebay someone posted a link to them ages ago but they had sold out, i kept pestering them until they got more in stock not sure if they're mookeeh ones or not but they are pretty good. they give you up to 4 degrees negative on the back which is a bit too much as i ha...

this weekedn is round 6 of the Tasmanian super series and the improved production nationals.

a heap of turbos/rotaries and v8s will be there with no clear advantage to any of them so should be some good racing.

ill be there with my starion running in regularity so please come along

so what do people think? is it worth buying a second hand lsd and putting the centre in one of my open diffs? or welding up one of my open diffs instead? its for a dedicated track car too, no street duty at all!

what is the general consensus?

thanks for everyone's input and help

so in theory i could take out the JB lsd centre and put it in my open diff? if its not as worn on any teeth on any of the gears/pinions/wheels or whatever, then there should be no clunking or free play and i should have a working lsd?