Austarion

sorry guys one more question, with the oil feed hole, do i need to drill down into the block under that hole too? or will the 12mm head stud sitting in there not block it like it does with the head hole. cheers

ok cool thanks. i'll rip the head and get it sorted as soon as i can bring myself to undo all my work (and it stops raining)

dwlee wrote:The holes in a dohc block I have in the shed are 6mm. Also, note the oil inlet is on the exhaust side.

oh ok, that wasnt the impression i got from the pictures. so the oil feed is on the bolt hole closest to the thermostat. how far up is the gallery?

I did not drill out the head stud hole that carries the oil supply. However my turbo oil feed is coming from the back of the oil filter housing, not the head. So this might explain why I have not had any problems. The cam shafts have no signs of wear and I have been using the same head and cams sin...

ok so i'm running a 1/2" bit up as far as the oil gallery on the bolt hole closest to the CAS. i'm using an ARP stud set too so going by the same logic that allows for a 35 thou clearance. should be heaps any preferable size for the water holes in the block? same size as the gasket holes i gues...

With the evo head did you enlarge the clearance for the oil feed to the head given the increase in head bolt size? If you didn't do this the head will have to come off and you can correct the coolant flow direction at the same time. no i didnt, please explain whats required here. first i've heard o...

ah awesome mate! thanks for the help. yeah im running the rear outlet with an old toyota thermostat. ive got my manifolds on now and most of the way through the wiring, really didnt want to rip everything off again. cheers

hi guys, just a few questions if you dont mind. i've got my evo head on, but i didnt drill the two extra coolant holes in the block at the front... now im not planning on running huge power, am i going to have to rip the head off and drill them or can i get away without? i asked redzone and he said ...

Lunacy wrote:

WidebodyWoody wrote:Steam pipe is perfect for manifolds. I think it lasts longer then mild steel and stainless

Correct me if im wrong but i thought steampipe WAS mild steel.

Im getting my manifold made next week so will chuck a few pics up when its done.

steampipe is mild steel

enthuzed wrote:What is? Mild steel with it's highly corrosive (well, iron oxide) properties?

how many manifolds have you ever had to replace because they rusted out?

ive also heard that its just thermal fatigue. apparently stainless just really isnt the right material for exhausts

they always crack around the flange. without fail. some people say its just the weight of the turbo, others reckon its caused by an insufficiently secured exhaust acting like a 2 meter lever on the back of it

I remember reading ages ago that someone bought an eBay manifold and it cracked between the tubing and the mounting plate. The turbo weight would add it's own stresses to the manifold plus the heat cycles...so yes, something el cheapo bought from eBay that stands the test of time is worth knowing a...

fugazi wrote:This would work, but you will only get heating when termostat is open...

ah, i was going to tee the heater and turbo together, off the turbo (green) line, so should get flow all the time.

heres how i thought it was going to work. I can tee the heater water off from the turbo feed if you reckon thats a better idea fugazi