Austarion

Any reason you need it thicker? Anyone half decent with a TIG should be capable of welding 1.9mm ali. We've made fuel tank baffles out of 1mm ali and welded it without problems.

Speedy service from Flav as always - cheers mate!

As per the 'clutch pedal dropping' thread in tech, it seems I've broken the part that the clutch fork pivots on. In a fit of laziness, the box is still mostly in the car. I assume that there's a small part that screws into the gearbox that has the pivot ball on the end of it - that's the bit I need....

Closer inspection revealed a brittle fracture on the end of the pivot where there used to be a ball. Looks like the box is definitely coming out.

I've got the same problem at the moment, but from what I could see it looks like the pivot ball for the clutch fork has broken off. Either that or it's fallen out, but there sure isn't anything for the fork to pivot on. I'll update tomorrow when I get the 'box out.

All sorted - $100 brand spanking from Bursons.

Thanks for all the offers of help :beer

Try repco and autobarn and bring in your old starter so they can match it for you if u cant get in contact with flav. Also if u get someone to crank over your car while you lightly tap the starter motor with a spanner it might get it going. Already tried the tapping, but to no avail. Will try calli...

Tomorrow or Wednesday would be great. I'll keep trying Flav, but was just seeing if anyone else in Melbourne had a spare in the meantime.

Ricethief, just as long as it works I'm happy!

Flav is normally the man, but he's not answering his phone or signed into msn! Trying to chase something down quickly if possible.

Anyone have a starter in Melbourne that's sitting around spare? The one I have makes lots of interesting noises (mostly bad ones), but doesn't do any actual starting.

I havnt got around to that side of the design just yet. I dont actually have a vr4 mani to look at so im knid of going blind and using my eyecrometer whenever I see someone with a vr4 parked somewhere, I wander on over ask ask for a look. I was expecting to fit the fuel rail and injectors after the...

Again, not trying to be too picky but you didn't really anwer all of the questions in there :wink: If we ignore tuned lengths (which I'm happy to for a F/I engine), there's still more involved than just plenum volume. The shape of the whole manifold will have an effect on flow and thus power made by...

Tuned runner lengths are not necessary with Forced Induction. Wrong, they work exactly the same as they do in N/A :wink: My understanding of the theory was that tuned length is less important for F/I, but still plays a part. And after playing with a turbo engine on a dyno with nothing changed but r...

I'm not trying to be negative at all here, but I'd love to see some calculations for any of this stuff, most notably the runner lengths and plenum volume for the intake. Also, how do you plan on making the inlets cheaply? To get injector bosses machined up and make it all match up to a fuel rail is ...

First thing would be to go through the driveline (gearbox, transfer case and rear diff) and make sure they're filled with the right amount of genuine mitsubishi oils. For some reason the evo's don't like aftermarket fluids in the driveline (with the exception of BG Synchroshift in the gearbox).