Austarion

The boot has been fixed. It's worth mentioning though that Al's fix used a section of radiator hose being connected onto the turbo. Probably not the best solution as this type of hose wouldn't handle the extreme temps and any oil and the turbo is oil cooled so it is around there. :?

The JA Exhaust Manifold was not repairable.

I'm looking for a replacement or other ideas. Thanks

Mine has a crack in it. We are going to remove it to see if it is repairable.

Does anyone have one for sale in good condition.

Or am I better off getting a new one made up from scratch?

Thanks for the warning. My Mechanic also mentioned the same. I've had the car since new (yes, I'm that old) and I recall replacing it with a new one around ten years ago. As that isn't an option now I'm hoping it isn't quite as perished as a 20 year old one would be. However the turbo was only repla...

Thanks Al, I checked out you repair instructions and I'll go with that. Cheers

Thanks for the replies. It looks like it will be a repair job. Cheers

I need a NEW rubber boot from the air box to the turbo for a JA. Does any one supply these?

I need a MAP Sensor for a JA. I need it to be confirmed in working order. Thanks

hasn't anyone got on?

wtb LH door mirror glass fo JA

This may not be the cause but if the car hasn't been driven much it could just be the fuel. I've had my JA since new (yes I'm old). On the odd occasion it would ping under power. Usually a fresh load of 'good' fuel fixed it. Then again your problem may be bigger

1. The water leaking could be a blown head gasket, beware!

2. the pinging could be just the petrol in it. It should run on the OLD Super. It needs the octane. My JA runs happily on PRemium Unleaded, Shell is best as it has highest octane

good luck

If you get an injector from the Jap wreckers ensure it has the same flow rate at max. I got a couple a few years back and they were only 3/4 of the Ausy JA injectors when fully open

I had a similar problem for a while. It was the air flow meter. When trying to re-start, when shut down warm, it would just crank and flood. I found that by unlatching and opening the air box lid the car would start ok, then I had to close the box up to drive. It was the air flow meter. I sent it aw...

Thanks guys. reading this was better than CSI tonight.