DRIFT Starion info thread - Calling all DRIFT Starions

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Sun May 27, 2012 11:22 pm

I do have some footage of a friend's car that I've sponsored (through LOKOUT Drift) and we did a lot of work and set up on for that, and it's going pretty well!

Here's a link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiSYLGngYYI

Also if anyone is wanting to see more frequent updates on my progress etc, all my LOKOUT Drift stuff, including my Starion stuff, is at:
http://www.facebook.com/lokoutdrift

It's really just a work in progress at the moment, but we're slowly getting better set up, and the Facebook page gets the most frequent updates cos its so easy to upload photos straight to from events etc.

Oh and GormZ- I do think the intercooler is a good idea. That old burgundy JB was totally stock engine wise. Did well for a few events, but then all got a bit tired, and hot, and did the bottom end, I believe likely due to a bit of detonation.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sun May 27, 2012 11:24 pm

By memory I ran 195/60/15's on the back & 205/50/16's on the orange car back I'm the day, skinner on the rear the better with a stock engine...

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Sun May 27, 2012 11:38 pm

Motor:
- Standard internals
- Standard type A injection
- Standard exhaust mani (modded slightly)
- TDO5 14B turbo
- Front mount IC.
- 2.5" exhaust system & screamer

Suspension
- 36 way adjustable coilovers
- Front camber tops
- Drilled and slotted rotors
- Welded differential (soon to install LSD)
- 17" Drift teks with grippy tyres (front)
- Standard 14" alloys with used tyres (rear)

Alignment:
----------------Front---------Rear--------
- Caster........ 4.06
- Camber......-2.30...........-3.36
- toe.............-1.00........... 0.00

Goes ALOT better with new turbo and inter cooler, but gets hot fast (after one thrash lap the temp gauge gets very close to the top).
There is very little turbo lag and starts to boost at 1500 and is full boost by about 3200 rpm. It doesn't seem to run out of puff, and it flutters :giddy :giddy

Have a Hydraulic handbrake to go in it but didn't get it in in time for the last drift prac so it was very difficult to initiate.

To see my Inter cooler set up / Build thread:
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... c&start=30

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Sun May 27, 2012 11:59 pm

Nice comprehensive info there!

And yes as Redzone said, the lest power, the skinnier you want on the back. Also go around maybe 38 - 40 psi in the rear to help them loose grip

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Tue May 29, 2012 1:45 am

MitsuMadness wrote:I do have some footage of a friend's car that I've sponsored (through LOKOUT Drift) and we did a lot of work and set up on for that, and it's going pretty well!

Here's a link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiSYLGngYYI

Nice video, smart lad PJ is, he likes to keep away from the wall.
Oh, and we both know who the potty mouth is LOL LOL

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Tue May 29, 2012 7:18 am

Yeh quite a few people go into that wall

He's pretty naturally talented at it yeh, and he's generally pretty humble about that fact which helps.

Haha yes true- I was gonna try edit that out, but then you'd also miss out on the sound of the car. Bit of a shame. Ah well.

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Thu May 31, 2012 12:18 pm

good stuff guys! starting to get some real good info in this thread now :beer

yeah i plan to run 38 - 40psi in the rears and possibly 32 - 34 in the fronts for a bit more grip i hope. My stockies on the car at the moment are horrible with tyres that are like drag radials LOL. Need something with a smaller profile i think.

@niss720, your welded diff im assuming starts sliding pretty easily once clutchkicked even when a bit underpowered? Was going to say regarding your heating issue, what condition is your thermostat in? I've replaced mine the other day and its gone from being overly hot to only starting to get to optimum temperature by the time i reach work which is about 15 - 20kms away. So glad with the results of such a cheap part which is doing wonders for me. I do have a oversized radiator though... but i think it was there due to a heating issue in the past. (Note: car wasn't overheating according to the gauge but when popping bonnet you could feel how hot it was and the cooler lines would take ages to loose pressure before the thermostat was installed).

In the future i'm wanting to look into a decent clutch/flywheel setup also.. What you guys running? Any brands you can recommend? Need something which is going to take a flogging and only want to replace it once.. dont mind if its a "bit" unstreetable but i'll get used to it on day. lol...

Also i followed you on facebook mitsu! great videos and work being put into them! :).

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Thu May 31, 2012 9:20 pm

clutches and gearboxes are consumables on a drift car LOL

call npc in brisbane and tell them exactly what you'll be doing with it..

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:31 pm

Yeh I'm using an Excedy heavy duty button clutch (3 puk ceramic), with standard machined & balanced flywheel. Works great, but yeh gearboxes- I have a collection of 5 spares for when (not if) I break one. May look at tougher boxes in future but for now I'll just try and rebuild them as I go and bring a spare to track!
Haven't killed one yet tho!

Enjoyed our chat today too GormzZ!
:beer

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:34 pm

Oh and I don't think you want to go too nasty with the clutch, cos then you'll start snapping Diffs and half shafts and gearboxes quicker. Better to wear clutches out a bit more often than break all the other parts down the line. I'm even thinking of going away from the ceramic button clutches to just heavy duty ones. Not sure of your thoughts on that too Redzone?

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Thu May 31, 2012 10:58 pm

MitsuMadness wrote:Oh and I don't think you want to go too nasty with the clutch, cos then you'll start snapping Diffs and half shafts and gearboxes quicker. Better to wear clutches out a bit more often than break all the other parts down the line. I'm even thinking of going away from the ceramic button clutches to just heavy duty ones. Not sure of your thoughts on that too Redzone?

Yeah was a good chat today mate :)

Yeah just thinking of snapping halfshafts and breaking gearbox's etc.. i dont think i would want that if im going to try the welded diff option eh? :P. Wouldn't wanna be flying down to a corner and smashing the clutch to hear the noise of my diff just blow up lol. Yeah i'll look into heavy duty's also..

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Thu May 31, 2012 11:49 pm

Yea I would recommend you get an LSD. Mine still has a welded center and it's making horrible noises. I have a welded center and an open center that i swap between for road and drift but its heavy and a pain in the ass so i cant be bothered swapping it back. I just picked up an LSD now and I'm going to put that in to save the effort, trust me its worth it.

More on this later :D

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:07 am

yeah u really need the bite of a button to promote quick breakaway, you can use an organic centre but you need them to build more clamping pressure into the pressure plate than they normally would, off the shelf clutches like exedy wont do that and you have to twist clutch shops arms to do it...

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 3:12 pm

GormzZ wrote:Yeah just thinking of snapping halfshafts and breaking gearbox's etc.. i dont think i would want that if im going to try the welded diff option eh? :P. Wouldn't wanna be flying down to a corner and smashing the clutch to hear the noise of my diff just blow up lol. Yeah i'll look into heavy duty's also..

The noise of the welded diff is lovely. squeals around every slow and sharp corner, screams when driving around within petrol stations, will add even more clunks to your driveline and puts way too much stress on your driveshafts for my liking. The spline on my torque tube and diff is now nackered by the extra sterss even know i greased it well.

This makes on-road driving uncomfortable and awquard, but fun on occasions. On track it is obviously better for drifting as its nearly impossible to drift with an open diff, but the car under steers alot more when cornering, with no handbrake it makes it difficult to turn it to oversteer. In the long run its not worth it as it will cost you more money in replacing the entire drive line. Drifting puts enough stress on the drive line you dont need to add any more.

Will add more info on the LSD when i get another torque tube and install it but as yours will be a road/track like mine i would leave the 'weldys' to the commo owners and recconmend a Limited Slip Diff, that way you can also enjoy some grip action

GormzZ · Post by **GormzZ** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:00 pm

Yeah figured that.. mate at work was just saying to get another open diff and weld it up and swap it in and out when drifting/not drifting.. not a bad idea as i just want to get onto the track and im a tightarse LOL. But yeah the lsd is on the cards.. just a matter of time i guess.

Also by tightening the current factory starion handbrake so that it is locked up in say 6 clicks is decent enough yeah? Might look into a hydro one in the future also.. just baby steps and basics so i can get on the track sooner then later.

Austarion

DRIFT Starion info thread - Calling all DRIFT Starions

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