Austarion

fugazi wrote: ↑Tue Dec 13, 2022 6:00 am

popup wrote: ↑Fri Nov 18, 2022 4:56 am The cardboard box in the background does not contain a 6 bolt 4G64 crank, honestly!

No... probably not!
Because that would be you having Unobtainium here in Europe... or wherethefuckelse...
Find me one and I'll spank you for free... how-ever-long-you'd-like!

It should be, I had my eyes on it on UK ebay for over a year then thought I'd better grab it as I probably won't find another in the UK. It's been reground so needs next size down of bearings. No idea where it came from originally but you are right, 2.4 Cranks not so common around this part of the world. I reckon if you ask around some FB groups you might find one kicking about somewhere, think I've seen them before on Germany ebay.

My exhaust manifold turned up from a UK forum member with the weld fixed, T25 flange fitted and milled flat! I got carried away fiddling around with it, wrapping it and seeing how the oil and water lines will work. I made a new bracket to hold the dipstick tube, along with a new o-ring down on the bottom of the tube. Thits it sticking up between exhaust runners 1 and 2.



I chopped this flange off the exhaust but just had to get a photo of how small the system is - that bit is 45mm! This was a custom built stainless system, but the previous owner didn't really spec it big enough and its full of terrible press bends. Not a great job really. I will use this system just for testing and driving it to a new custom exhaust shop. Going for mandrel bent 3" system.

It's failed its yearly safety test in the past for windscreen wiper falling off!
It's always had a problem on one side with the pin falling out and it being very loose. The spring metal has been bent out of shape in the past and I thought I fixed it but it's still not great and it "judders" as it wipes. I saw that some Delicas etc have conversion kits for the normal (at least for the UK) "J" hook type fitting. There are plent of knock off ones for Mitsubishis and Toyotas so bought a set. Removing the old end was easy - just bend the tabs and slide off.



I left the raised dimple bit of the arm to mate with the middle hole. I drilled a new 3.2mm hole in the Starion arm for a black M3 bolt and nyloc. Not tried it yet but there is a lot less wobble which I think was causing the judders.

Got a 3" downpipe made up ouf of the pieces I bought. Cost a lot to get welded as I first had to get it tacked, check it fits, make adjustment then get it fully welded. Hopefully thats the last time I need to touch it. It's a little tight to the brake booster. I've paid lots of attention to thermal managemnt, so hopefully with the exhaust wrapped and the extra embossed lauminium sheet on the brake boost all should be fine.





I did some tidying up of the wiring on the alarm. I also made a blanking plate after the cruise control stalk was deleted.


With the dash out yet again (being thankful the screws are into metal and not 40 year old plastic) I changed the indicator lights. I never liked the solid green with black paint, didn't fit in with the rest of the lights and looked much more 1970s. So I got the cheapest cluster from ebay (Citroen C2 no less) and cut the symbol out. The C2 uses clear windows and coloured LEDs, so as the bulb in the Staion is clear I used some spare green stage lighting gel. The result is a perfect looking green indicator.

Youv'e got some bloody good work done there popup!
Neeeeeed to get some done on my precious.... soon... maybe... *fuckit*